In the world of fashion, the lines between cultural appropriation and cultural appreciation can often be blurry. Designers, influencers, and consumers are frequently challenged to understand the difference, especially as the global fashion industry becomes increasingly diverse and interconnected. While both concepts involve the exchange of cultural elements, the context, intention, and impact make all the difference. Understanding these two terms is crucial for promoting inclusivity, respect, and ethical behavior in the fashion world.

What is Cultural Appropriation in Fashion?

Cultural appropriation in fashion refers to the use of elements from one culture by members of a different culture, often without proper understanding, respect, or acknowledgment of their significance. Typically, it involves dominant cultures (often Western) borrowing aspects from marginalized or historically oppressed cultures. These elements can include clothing, accessories, hairstyles, and even symbols that hold deep cultural, spiritual, or historical meanings.

For example, wearing a Native American headdress as a fashion statement without understanding its sacred role in Native American traditions is considered cultural appropriation. Similarly, a designer using traditional African prints or patterns in a collection without acknowledging their roots can be seen as exploiting and commodifying these cultural symbols for profit, without giving credit or respecting their significance.

Cultural appropriation often occurs when elements are stripped of their original meaning and used for aesthetic or commercial purposes. This leads to the trivialization of important cultural symbols and perpetuates harmful stereotypes, further marginalizing the communities from which these elements originate.

What is Cultural Appreciation in Fashion?

Cultural appreciation, on the other hand, refers to the respectful and informed engagement with a culture and its elements. In fashion, this means understanding the cultural context, history, and significance behind a particular garment, accessory, or design, and honoring the traditions and creators that birthed them. Cultural appreciation promotes dialogue, learning, and celebration of different cultures in an ethical and respectful manner.

For instance, collaborating with artisans from a specific community to design clothing that is rooted in their traditions, while respecting their craftsmanship and compensating them fairly, reflects cultural appreciation. This is often done with the intention to share the beauty and significance of a culture with a wider audience, fostering respect and understanding.

Cultural appreciation also involves ensuring that the community whose culture is being represented is involved in the process, whether that’s through consultation, collaboration, or fair compensation. It’s about building relationships that celebrate cultural richness while elevating the voices of those who have historically been marginalized.

Key Differences Between Cultural Appropriation and Appreciation

Intentions and Awareness:

Appropriation is often rooted in ignorance or an inability to recognize the cultural significance behind certain elements.

Appreciation is driven by genuine respect, understanding, and the intention to honor and preserve the cultural legacy of the items being used.

Power Dynamics:

Appropriation typically involves the exploitation of cultures that are marginalized or oppressed, often by those in a position of power.

Appreciation fosters equality by elevating marginalized voices and giving them the opportunity to share their culture in a meaningful way.

Representation and Credit:

In appropriation, the culture being borrowed from is often erased, and the creators of the original designs are left out of the conversation.

In appreciation, creators are credited, and their cultural contributions are acknowledged and celebrated.

Impact on Communities:

Appropriation often leads to the commodification of cultural symbols and reinforces harmful stereotypes, which can be damaging to the communities involved.

Appreciation helps to educate, create opportunities for cultural exchange, and build respectful relationships between cultures.

Examples of Cultural Appropriation in Fashion

The “Boho” Trend:

In the early 2000s, the “boho” style was popularized by Western celebrities, where elements such as feathered headdresses, ethnic prints, and jewelry from various Indigenous cultures were worn without any understanding of their significance. This led to criticism from Indigenous communities who felt their sacred symbols were being reduced to mere fashion statements.

Kimono Wearing Controversy:

When brands or influencers use the traditional Japanese kimono in a commercial context, it can be seen as appropriation if the cultural significance of the garment is not respected. The kimono is not just a piece of clothing, but a symbol of Japanese heritage and identity, and its commodification without respect can be hurtful.

The “Native American” Headdress:

Popularized by festivals such as Coachella, the wearing of Native American headdresses by non-Native individuals has sparked controversy. The headdress, worn by Native American tribes as part of ceremonial practices, carries deep cultural and spiritual meaning and is not a fashion accessory.

Examples of Cultural Appreciation in Fashion

Collaborations with Indigenous Designers:

Fashion brands working with Indigenous designers or artisans to create pieces that reflect their cultural heritage, while ensuring they are fairly compensated and credited, is an example of cultural appreciation. For instance, designers like Bethany Yellowtail, a Native American designer, incorporate cultural narratives into their collections while educating others about her community’s traditions.

The Role of Fashion in Promoting Diversity:

Fashion houses such as Gucci and Dior have showcased collections that feature African prints, Indian textiles, and other cultural elements, but they have made efforts to work with artisans from those cultures, providing them a platform and recognition. These collaborations highlight cultural richness while elevating marginalized voices.

Celebrating African Fashion:

African fashion has long been a source of inspiration for global designers. However, the fashion industry has increasingly been moving toward authentic collaborations with African designers, such as Stella Jean’s partnership with African artisans to create designs that pay homage to African culture while empowering local communities.

Conclusion:

Cultural appropriation and cultural appreciation are two distinct concepts in fashion, with far-reaching implications. While appropriation can perpetuate stereotypes, exploit marginalized communities, and reduce cultural symbols to mere trends, appreciation fosters respect, inclusivity, and celebration of diverse cultures. It is essential for the fashion industry to promote cultural appreciation by acknowledging the value of cultures, respecting traditions, and ensuring that the communities contributing to the industry are given their due recognition and credit.

Ultimately, the key to navigating this complex issue lies in thoughtful reflection, active listening, and building genuine relationships with the cultures being celebrated. By doing so, fashion can become a powerful tool for fostering inclusivity, understanding, and respect across borders.

Source - OhWomen